When Intore dance took centre stage

It was in Kampala last week that I saw how the captivating Rwandan dance has taken regional and global centre stage as a cultural heritage to be enjoyed, if in return for “something”. I and a group of colleagues were being treated to an evening out at the Ndere Cultural Centre, reminiscent of a Roman amphitheatre in its unassuming replication of the Roman stands in a semi-circle around a modest stage. It would prove to be an evening of great entertainment, presided over by the hilarious Master of Ceremony, Emmanuel – an exuberant university student, also obviously a practiced story teller and leader of the Ndere troupe. We shall come back to him in a moment. The troupe he led featured cultural dances from Uganda and other countries in the EAC. Among the attractions was the iconic Intore dance performed by dancers who turned out to be authentic Rwandans. These, however, were Diaspora Rwandans in Kampala, though a bit young, if somewhat inexperienced. So, for those who know their Intore dance, the dancers were not exactly exquisite or polished, though they passably held the grace and tempo of the dance. The graceful moves characteristic of the Intore dance came out with the ladies, complemented by the charming moves and intense foot stomp of the men, as they flaunted their warrior head-gears.The camera flashes told of the audience’s appreciation during the dance, not to mention the sustained applause after it.Rukundo, who is still in secondary school, was among the dancers. It was probably by design, but it was how he was called back to the stage that demonstrated the genius of the show.As the dancers were retreating backstage, Emmanuel, the troupe leader, addressed the audience: “I can see some of you, especially those at the back, did not get a good picture. Come down here at the front I show you something: You will get the best pictures of the Intore dance.” Then he called out, “Hey, Rukundo, come back a minute.” With a Rwandan beat in the background, Rukundo was instructed to dance until the troupe leader told him to freeze a move. Rukundo nodded that he understood and proceeded with gusto showcasing his choice dance moves. “There!” Emmanuel suddenly instructed. “Hold it there!” The pose in which Rukundo froze caught the moment when the arms are simultaneously outstretched with the body in some anticipatory crouch, before the springy leap that intensely comes down with the signature Intore stomp. The tourists, cameras at the ready, snapped away at similar selected poses.We were to learn that Rukundo’s school fees, as that of the entire cast of the Ndere cultural dancers, all of them from needy backgrounds, was being paid for by their performance at the Centre.This bit of information was thoroughly satisfying, to have so enjoyed and yet to have invested, however minimally, in betterment of the young dancers.As for reaping the cultural dividend, even Rwanda Air is doing it with its international advert featuring the Intore dance on CNN and elsewhere.One may also recall Frederic Butera, the celebrated Intore dancer whose moves once graced the one hundred Rwandan Francs bill and appeared in Coca Cola commercials in the 1950s and 60s. It goes to show how the Intore dance has continued to fascinate and straddle time and space.I, however, can’t resist concluding with Emmanuel. After assuring the white people in the audience that they, too, would have been as (very) dark-skinned as himself had God not planned properly and run out of black paint, he revealed to the audience where the Almighty hailed from.“He comes from where I was born,” Emmanuel said, pausing momentarily like one who knew not everyone would agree. “You do not believe me?”Then, he asked the audience, “Do we have a Muganda (i.e., from Buganda) in the house?”A jocular group at a table up the steps pointed to a shy lady among them, as Emmanuel moved over with a microphone.“Where is God?” he asked the young lady, adding. “Reply in Luganda.”“Mu gulu (i.e., heaven)” the lady readily replied. “You heard it yourselves: God is from Gulu (a town in Northern Uganda).”Twitter: @gituram