Rwandans love their Primus, but drinking it alone for hours induces hunger. To remedy this problem, they have the “brochette,” (some prefer to call it kebab). Together with beer, they make the perfect filling, non-nutritive meal. You can find brochettes in every corner of the country. Depending on if you buy them at the little village shack or a big hotel, prices can vary from Rwf 300 to Rwf 1,500. From my experience, the village shack brochettes are the best. For your enjoyment (and experimentation), here are what I consider to be the best recipes for brochettes and potatoes! Vegetarians look away! There’s nothing for you in this article. As far as I know, brochettes places in Kigali concentrate purely on beef, goat, chicken and fish on a stick. In fact I think brochette is one of the few food items that truly define Rwandan cuisine. You can order brochettes at most restaurants in Kigali but if you want them cheap then you’ll have to head to one of the many local bars in Kigali (often identified by brightly colored Primus beer labels). Brochettes at a local place will generally cost between Rwf 300 and Rwf 600 each, while the main condiment Ibirayi (Irish potatoes) go for as low as Rwf 200 for a whole big potato. Some places will give you a little side salad of cabbage and white onions, and if you’re lucky, a tomato and some mayonnaise. Alternatively, you could accompany it with potato chips. Chicken is usually only a choice at restaurants. Some places offer hot pili pili sauce, while others may lace their brochettes with pieces of liver. You might find yourself eating at a brochettes place with beautiful views over the city or you could find yourself being crammed into a small concrete room with a few plastic chairs and a dim neon light. One thing is guaranteed on a night out for brochettes, that is, it will take at least an hour to come. Local bars aren’t known for being speedy with their service. So having some good company, a laid back attitude and a few beers will go a long way towards having a good night out, Rwandan style.
