Cambodia – Ruins, Remembrance, and Recovery

A lush, tropical country, Cambodia combines jungles, beaches and ruins, where magnificent ancient history meets a tumultuous recent one. With a dollarized economy (US dollar bills used, Cambodian riels as small change) and a booming tourist industry, this gem nestled in Southeast Asia is sure to please. From Phnom Penh International Airport, any of a number of taxis or tuk-tuks (motorbikes fitted with a cabin for passengers) will take you to your hotel for under $10. If you don’t have advance reservations, the driver will gladly take you to a place to fit any budget. Hotels, hostels, and guesthouses cost from $5 per night to upwards of $100, with even budget options offering wifi and fan or air-con. The magnificent buildings of Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace and National Museum, lying on the Mekong River, provide a peak into Khmer history, lifestyle, and tradition. Visit in morning or late afternoon to avoid mid-day heat. Respectful attire is necessary, museum entrance $3. For a look into Cambodia’s devastating recent history, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, or S-21 prison, offers an up-close glimpse into the Khmer Rouge’s four-year reign of terror, including photographs of thousands of its victims. This former school, converted into a prison in 1975, saw some 14,000 political prisoners tortured and killed. Just outside of town lie the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, a mass grave where thousands more met their end. Both are somber places not for the faint hearted, but offer great insight into the suffering of Cambodia’s people. Roundtrip tuk-tuk stopping at both sites $10, museum entrance $2. From Phnom Penh a $4-dollar bus will take you to Battambang, Cambodia’s second largest city, for a bit of beauty that emerged from the suffering of refugee camps: the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus. Set up in the early 90s, proceeds from the circus fund a K-12 school for disadvantaged children, as well as a circus and art school to help the children express themselves and find a way out of poverty. Bright, joyful performances cost $10. But, no trip to Cambodia would be complete without heading to Siem Reap to explore Angkor Wat, the jewel in Southeast Asia’s archaeological crown. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, former capital of the ancient Khmer Empire, covers more than 400 square kilometers. A multitude of painstakingly restored temple ruins fill the area, covered in bas-relief moldings, crawling vines, and sprawling trees, where monkeys roam and orange-robed monks shuffle silently by. Passes are available for 1 day ($20), 3 days ($40), and 7 days ($60). Siem Reap has plenty to offer on its own. Tour its beautiful Buddhist temples or bustling central market. Partake in a marijuana-seasoned “happy” pizza, fried tarantula, or pregnant eggs (duck eggs, embryo intact). Take a tuk-tuk to the nearby Landmine Museum and Angkor Butterfly Center, which provide interesting information and contribute to the local community. Cambodia is a country in recovery, full of beautiful architecture, exotic foods, and lovely people, its natural and cultural beauty offering an eloquent rebuttal to the brutality of its past. Flights from Kigali start at $1100. Visa on arrival at $20.