Life on the border

MARTIN TINDIWENSI discovers the crisscross existence of Goma and Gisenyi residents Built in the 1930’s under Belgian colonial rule, Goma with its twin city, Gisenyi on the Rwandan side, became favourite resort towns for wealthy Congolese and many other Africans and European tourists. Leaders in Goma say nearly 200,000 Congolese now live in the northern Kivu district, most of them farmers cultivating beans and coffee and raising cattle, which is sent by air to Kinshasa, the country’s capital city. Goma for many years has carried out trade with her Rwandan neighbour Gisenyi, Western Province. Indeed most of the towns that border Goma have prospered. Cell phones, wines, clothes and television sets stream into Gisenyi from Goma. Residents from Goma flock to Gisenyi markets for food crops especially Irish potatoes grown in the Rwandan volcanic soils. Almost 60 per cent of Gisenyi’s cars have Congolese number plates while most of the population speak Swahili, one of the most commonly used language in Goma. Congolese women are seen moving along Gisenyi streets with baskets full of locally packed ‘Kwanga’ from cooked cassava. The business is booming. Wealthy businessmen from Goma make use of the various hotels in Gisenyi to enjoy their weekends on hot sand of Lake Kivu beaches. Hundreds of Rwandan women with majority carrying babies on their backs and baskets full of fruits or maize flower flock the towns like thousands of ants visiting their newly crowned queen in a huge anthill. “We are making money because commodities which are not liked in Gisenyi can be transported to Goma,” Andrew Mukuru, a trader dealing in second hand motorcycle spare parts says. In a bid to promote business cooperation between the two towns, authorities from Congolese Kivu north province and Rubavu district signed an agreement allowing Rwandans with national identity cards, ‘Indangamuntu’, to move freely through the border. Residents on Rwandan side are given temporary travel documents, known locally as ‘Akajeto’ as proof to the Congolese security personnel that they are legit. According to residents in Gisenyi, the exercise facilitates business. “This is a good idea because it would be impossible for hundreds of people who trade in various commodities to possess passports,” explained Hamzah Habineza, a businessman in Gisenyi early this week. “Documents would be filled with stamps in only a week and it would be too much work for the immigration since hundreds of people cross the border point using petite barriere every day,” he continued. “Some do it twice or thrice a day. This process is fast. You only need to show your ID to get an already stamped small paper to prove to authorities in Goma that you entered in the country legally.” Although the Rubavu District authority banned money changers, a visitor cannot fail to meet more than 100 money changers. They are found on the other side of the border, standing and waiting. They buy francs or dollars depending on the day’s exchange rate. US dollars are the most commonly used currency in Goma with Gisenyi using both Rwandan francs and dollars. In Gisenyi dollars are accepted by motorcyclists, in restaurants and in the markets. Businessmen will accept dollars since almost all residents in Gisenyi are always aware about the current exchange rates. Safe and sound? Although trade between the two towns is currently booming, there are times of sporadic insecurity caused by some marauding insurgent still loitering in DRC. In October last year, former Rubavu district mayor Ramadan Baringayabo issued a warning, advising residents of Gisenyi to be mindful about their security. He said some security agents in Goma had started harassing business people from Rwanda on suspicion that they were rebel collaborators. In the past, crashes between the DRC government and rebel leader Laurent Nkunda changed the city’s trade rhythms almost bringing business to a standstill. Some Rwandans were arrested. The continuous torture and arrests of Rwandese later resulted into an agreement signed by the Governor of the Western Province, Penelope Kantalama and her counterpart in Goma, Ferry Rutayikirwa, and the Vice Governor of the Northern Kivu Province. The agreement was meant to help business people from both sides. It was meant to increase cooperation between the two provinces and to fight against injustices inflicted on Rwandans living in DRC. Later, the agreement resulted in the September 4 Invent where the North Kivu Province authority handed over 12 Rwandan abductees who had been arrested in Goma and illegally detained in safe houses. In December last year, 35 more Rwandans were released from various safe houses in Goma. Smuggler secrets The low prices of most commodities in Goma have tempted some Rwandans to smuggle them in the country through ‘Panya’ illegal routs, evading taxes. Officials from Rwanda Revenue Authority have their work cut out for them. Although RRA is aware of the malpractices and has arrested some of the smugglers, some people continue to dodge RRA. According to Mukamana, a recently arrested smuggler, people, especially low-income earners, have no money to pay taxes and are tempted to dodge the taxes. “I have been crossing the border with 21 t-shirts. Each time I crossed the border into Rwanda, I put on five t-shirts, and tie others around my waist. I would then cover my self with a soft cloth to look like a fat Moslem woman,” reveals Mukamana. One RRA official who preferred unanimity said there are still many smugglers who illegally bring in alcohol, electronic devices and clothes. He said that there were young men locally known as Cyoracyora whose work was to smuggle goods from Goma and that RRA was doing every thing possible to ensure all goods enter the country legally. Although the trade between the two towns has helped many out of poverty, it has had some negative effects as well. Reports to date are consistent that some traders operating inside Congo, sneak in to Gisenyi with marijuana, something likely to fuel drug related crimes. Ends