Kanombe Presidential Palace: where former President Juvenal Habyarimana lived

The former Kanombe State House has hosted the former two presidents Juvénal Habyarimana 1973-1994 and Pasteur Bizimungu 1994-2000. Located about four kilometers from the International airport in Kanombe, it was previously protected with CCTV cameras and an endless number of well-armed guards. Today, all you will see is a solitary guard and well-dressed receptionists and guides. With a lot of anticipation, I sat at the reception as I waited for the manager to officially let me start my tour. With the many stories I’ve heard, I just couldn’t wait to walk in. My tour started at the house where Habyarimana’ lived before he deposed Gregoire Kayibanda in a bloodless coup. I guess he must have really loved the location because when he became president he ordered that State House be built right next to it.Entering the huge mansion that has turned into a museum, we were ushered into an all-white living room. It’s said that Habyarimana was obsessed with the color white. And in his sitting room, everything appeared white except the new sofas that were placed there during Bizimungu’s presidency. Then came a well lit, hidden room where Agathe Habyarimana, the president’s wife, is believed to have hosted the murderous clique known as the ‘Akazu’. This clique is believed to have planned the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi. Something about the room made me uneasy. So, when we moved to the kitchen, I was relieved.It was almost empty except for a refrigerator that I discovered still worked.Taking the stairs to the master bedroom, I was taken aback by the huge bathrooms. As I entered the bathroom I saw an old metal safe. I was told that it would always be open and filled with cash in order to distract anyone who burst into the room with murderous intentions.Then came the chapel and witchcraft room. We opened the secret door that led to them, walking up a dark stairway, flanked by stuffed animals on either side, I entered the spooky place. According to the guides, Habyarimana’s voodoo priest would cast his spells on his boss’s enemies.I left the building to take a walk around the compound and see where, according to legend, a magical 250 kilogramme python resided. It’s said that when Habyarimana’s plane crashed, the snake disappeared mysteriously. Ironically when he died in a plane crash right in this same compound, the wreckage of the plane was found scattered. Parts of the wreckage are seen in the compound today. The plane carrying Habyarimana, was brought down by rocket fire on 6 April 1994. All in all, the visit was a highly educative one, although it was disconcerting at times. Entrance to the Museum is Rwf500 for students with a valid ID and Rwf2,000 for everyone else. It is open from 8a.m to 9p.m.