Experiencing 24 hours in Akagera

We did not drive more than ten minutes past the northern entrance before we ran into a small herd of Topi antelopes. The familiar landscape of rolling hills was quickly severed as we entered into an open Savannah that extended for kilometers before encountering the vague outline of the distant mountains of Tanzania. The sunset behind us illuminated a herd of about 50 lithe Impala which galloped away from the truck as if it were a predator. Akagera National Park is situated in Rwandas eastern border with Tanzania and follows the meandering trail of the Akagera River. Though the park lost 1/3 of its land after 1994 land settlements that accommodated Rwandan citizens in exile, it still holds an expansive 900 Sq Km. The park lost most of its big feline population when the new settlers failed to peacefully co-exist with the large predators. Therefore, it is rare to run into animals of prey such as leopards and hyenas. There are current plans to replenish the depleted lion population in order to restore Akagera to its bygone bio-diversity, and to control the multitude of trouble-free antelopes. Around 7:00p.m a quick darkness set into the plain, and one could only see outlines of horns against the darkening sky canvas. We drove 25km to arrive at the parks designed campground where the ranger helped us set up camp and we started a blazing fire in less than half an hour. After tossing a match onto the timber, we heard the satirical cry of a hyena responding to our presence. A half-dozen pairs of eyes shone as I aimed my flashlight away from the camp. The night was filled with sounds of movement and wild calls, yet the fire-lit camp was comfortably warm and inexplicably safe. We grilled potatoes and brochettes while telling stories; each one receiving the undivided attention that a campfire night calls for. At 5:30 in the morning, the pre-dawn sun lit the contour of the campsite and the distant hills emerged from the dense fog. The great unknown that had kept us near the fire was now revealed; there were a few curious impalas looking our way. After watching the sunrise burn the morning mist, we commenced our days journey. Around 8:00a.m we passed an acacia tree field where nine giraffes ate. They strode elegantly about the vast acacia field that daily feeds them. Curious ones would tilt their heads away from the trees and bow their long necks our way. As we grew eager and drove toward them, they awkwardly pranced away from the road. From there we drove about a kilometer to the Hippos Beach, where we found the first giant hippopotamus submerged in the water amongst the algae. The European invasive algae seems to cover most of the lake surface. Because these algae deprive oxygen from the water, in 2002 Akagera Park organised a massive cleaning project, which ridded the lake of the pest temporarily. Conservation efforts are currently still striving to address the problem with a long-term solution. After observing the hippopotamus for twenty minutes, he rose out of the water and slowly loomed about, at times menacingly looking out way. The magnificent creature displayed its large, coarse teeth, demanding that it be taken seriously. To avoid provoking the creature, we slowly drove away still in awe. The next few hours about the park, we saw several herds of antelope, a large herd of buffalos, and a baboon road crossing. Each hour of the day was marked with striking sightings of a wilderness, which calls for the passerbys full attention. The admiration provoked by those 24 hours made for an experience un-matched by any array of adventure that one could cram in a day. Though there are efforts to facilitate local tourism to Akagera, its currently an expensive ordeal that mostly targets tourists who have the means to rent Hemingwayesc safari Jeeps. Though the entry fee for national visitors is Rwf4500, its the lack of accommodation that raises the price of this expedition. One is forced to drive a private vehicle in order to provide transportation for themselves and the guide. The conservation and facilitation of tourism of the Akagera National Park is certainly one of the RDBs most valuable tasks.

Insight

Experiencing 24 hours in Akagera