TEMBEA: The Elementaita

IN the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elementeita or Elmentaita is located between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru, a soda lake, in the eastern limb of Great Rift Valley, about 120 km northwest of Nairobi, Kenya. It is strategically situated from a cliff on the Nakuru- Nairobi highway and is a Mecca for bird lovers as the Lake is a stop-over for over 350 bird species with a population of Pelicans and Flamingos which increases when environmental conditions like food resource base are limited in other saline lakes. Over 400 bird species have been recorded in the Lake Nakuru/Lake Elmenteita basin. Elmenteita attracts visiting flamingoes, both the Greater and Lesser varieties, which feed on the lake’s crustacean and insect larvae and on its suspended blue-green algae, respectively. Tilapia was also introduced to the lake from Lake Magadi in 1962 and since that time the flamingo population has dwindled considerably. The tilapia attracts many fish-eating birds that also feed upon the flamingo eggs and chicks. The lake’s shores are grazed by zebra, gazelle, eland and families of warthog. The name Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dry and dusty quality of the area, especially in the first few months of the year. At the southern end of the lake lies the “Kekopey” hot springs, in which Tilapia grahami breed. The reed beds nearby are fishing grounds for night herons and pelicans. The lake was formerly in Kekoy Ranch build by Lord Gaibraith Cole, an English Settler in 1916.Thus the lake retains early colonial home features that include a red brick building with shady terraces, an internal courtyard, paneled walls and a sitting room with a library and log fires. Overnight visitors can spend at Lake Elementaita Lodge as well as camping at Mbweha camp. The lake is normally very shallow ( Nearby attractions include the Kariandusi Museum, Elmenteita Badlands and the Soysambu Wildlife Sanctuary. At Kariandusi, an important prehistoric site where stone hand axes and cleavers were discovered in 1928 by Louis Leakey awaits. In these were discovered stone tools made from obsidian and black volcanic glass, used by early man Elmenteita Badlands is a lava flow to the south of the lake, covered in bush and including some spectacularly scenic peaks. Soysambu Wildlife Sanctuary gives an opportunity for visitors to spend time on the shores watching the incredible variety of bird species, Buffalo, Gazelle, Water buck, Jackal, Lion, Zebra, Leopard, Eland and Cheetah among other species of Wildlife. In addition to the bird walk and the scenic drive, visitors can interact with the local peasants who eke out a living by scooping the salty sedimentary deposits on the shores selling the salty deposits to cattle owners. The picturesque view of this lake is simply enthralling. Activities include horse riding down to the lake, or a nature walk that could take anywhere between 1 hour to 3 hours depending on your interest. Spinning tales of the colonial days and how this land came to be subdivided amongst the ranchers and the Maasai, to how agreements of old were signed not on paper that can burn or on stone that can be broken, but on cowhides that withstand the test of time. And pure white cowhides at that. The lake is beautifully set with abundant birdlife flitting among the reeds, and yellow-barked acacia trees sheltering the shores. There are underground hot springs bubbling up into pools in which you may immediately soak.

Lifestyle

TEMBEA: The Elementaita