Travel: When I dined with the hyenas in Ethiopia

The mention of the word hyena makes many of us flinch. But i discovered that these are not the ugly monsters that they are often portrayed to be. I travelled to Harar located in eastern Ethiopia where i came face to face with hyenas which live in harmony with human beings. I was in company of a local guide, and we arrived at about 7 PM. There was a man sitting with a basket full of meat surrounded by five imposing spotted hyenas. He called them one by one, each by their names, and gave them the roasted treat. Then, it was my turn to approach the intimidating and gigantic animals, an experience I will never forget. When I sat down there, I felt at ease. These were hyenas living in the wild, but for some reason, I could feel that there was nothing to fear. They were not that scary after all, I even started liking them. Yusuf the man who has a close relationship with the hynas is 65 years old. His first personal experience with hyenas was 25 years ago when three of them found their way into his farm in the countryside. At that time, Harar was just recovering after a war. Food was scarce, and most animals had perished. This left wild hyenas with not much to feed on. To prevent them from eating his dogs, he spent his meagre earnings on feeding these three hyenas for two days. However, this was too costly, so he stopped doing it. The next day, he heard strange noises and found the hyenas digging the ground next to his kids’ sleeping areas. He panicked and bought meat again for the love of his children, and since that time, he has continued the ritual on a daily basis. “The more I do it, the more I get to know them better and communicate with them. We now understand each other,” he says. Yusuf knows who the snitch is, or the leader or even the hard worker. They have established a deep connection. “These hyenas have a life expectancy of 15 to 20 years,” he reveals. There is Tukandili, the innocent and vulnerable one, Darsaniat, the one who eats the leftovers, or Abajole, the father figure. The hyenas are all named after their behaviour. These are Oromic words with strong meanings which describe personalities. “I highly respect them. That is why I only get the best beef or camel meat for them and I roast it. I don’t do it to attract tourists you know. I wouldn’t roast the meat if that was the case,” he admits. In fact, what he charges tourists is so little that it wouldn’t even pay for the meat, his time and effort. His love for them is real. My local guide and an old Harari woman. (Sarine Arslanian) Yusuf is now in the process of transferring his skills and knowledge to his son, Abbas. Before leaving, I asked him if he had a message to share with the world, he simply said with a big smile on his face: “Come visit me and my hyenas, then you can talk!”. If you have ever wondered what an open air museum would look like? Harar certainly is one. It is a stunning and colourful ancient city full of life and history on every street corner. No wonder it has been home to a variety of poets and artists including Rimbaud whose residence you can visit! It is also one of the only places in the world where Muslims and Christians have lived together in peace and harmony since having settled there, protected from the rest of the country by old city walls. And it is an amazing place to visit for coffee lovers. Located 8 to 10 hours drive East of Addis Ababa; the good part is that it is easily accessible. You can use public transport to get there, or rent your own car. Once in the city, there’s a wide range of affordable options to get around, including the bajaj and taxis. But the best way to explore the old city is certainly by foot! You can get lost while walking among pastel coloured houses and mosques or wandering around markets full of spices and welcoming locals. In terms of accommodation, it is better to head out to the new city where you can find hotels to sleep This trip was a combination of a very unique and memorable personal encounter and experience, and meaningful learning. I highly recommend visiting the man, the animals, and the place!

Lifestyle

Travel: When I dined with the hyenas in Ethiopia