Akabenzi: Insatiable appetite for the delicacy on the rise

Pork, or what is popularly known as Akabenzi, is a popular delicacy in Rwanda. The abattoirs are busy as hordes of pigs are ferried to the slaughter house every day, in order to quench Kigali’s growing appetite for pork. Eating pork has become a lifestyle especially among the elite or what we call corporates in the speak of the working class. If you’ve been to some of Rwanda’s eating joints lately, then it’s obvious that pork is a popular delicacy among diners. I have personally watched “corporates” rapidly empty the pork division at Meze Fresh gourmet and burrito restaurant. However, although most upscale hotels and restaurants serve pork dishes mixed with a variety of other ingredients such bacon, or serve shredded dry or sizzling pork, it goes without saying that roasted pork remains an unbeatable accompaniment for an evening drink in most bars around Kigali. Deep fried Irish potatoes are a popular ‘escort’ of Akabenzi. (Courtesy) If you’ve been to Kicukiro, Kinamba, Nyabugogo or Remera, then you will be amazed at how droves of local people and young corporates alike never stop filling up pork joints every evening. In random visits around Kigali bars, I was shocked at the big number of pork consumers at the joints and you should see the cars that park outside; one would be forgiven to think that there’s a high level dinner going on. Come Again Bar, Remera Located on the road heading to the airport, this place is known for yummy pork, chips, bananas, mayo, mysteriously delicious onions and skimpy salad. As we entered, customers were placing so many orders that even the waiters were confused. “Give me 1kg of pork and escorts,” one man shouted at a waiter. The pork is served on wide platters. The escorts vary depending on one’s pocket and taste. The pork is usually served with avocado, fried matooke, fried Irish potatoes, chips and cassava. Pork, popularly known as Akabenzi is steadily becoming a favoutite in Kigali restaurants. (Dean Karemera) Talking to customers, I got the sense that people are willing to go an extra mile to get that one delicious stick. Although the night manager wasn’t willing to talk to me saying I should contact the owner, customers gave me a glimpse into the taste of pork at the bar. Eduige Murebwayire is a pork lover and has been going to Come Again for quite some time. “These guys have very delicious pork and to make it better, it’s not even expensive. I usually come here with friends and we part with less than Rwf 12,000 for 2kgs. People always tell me that I have to watch my weight, but not with this delicious pork,” she concluded. A plate of pork goes for Rwf 3,000. The birth of a trend – African Villa (Kwa Mukunzi) Come Again Bar, although very popular is relatively new compared to some places that are credited with popularising the eating of pork. One of the earliest places to start this trend is Africa Villa (Kwa Mukunzi) around 2005 when it was still situated at Kisementi (now Lemon Tree) before relocating to Kicukiro. Pork ready for sale. When we visited African Villa, we found patrons feasting on lavish displays of pork ribs while sipping on beverages. Talking to the manager, Peter Kagabo, he revealed that the consumption of pork has gone up and he attributed this to many different nationalities of people who reside in the country, improved standards of living and mindset change. “For example, pork has been in neighbouring countries like Uganda and Kenya, so when it came into the country, the demand for pork went high,” he said. Kagabo added that the mentality about eating pork has changed overtime. He remembers a period when most Christians would shun pork because of its association with Biblical beliefs. “Things have changed now to the point that we have liberal Christians who eat pork. Other than that, most people think that pork is expensive and for the elite, however, that has also changed over time,” he said. At African Villa, more than 60kgs are sold in a week with most of the pork sold over the weekend. A plate of pork costs Rwf 2000 but can go as high as Rwf 4000 depending on the quantity. As the pork demand grows, so have the pork joints. Another pork joint that has stood the test of time albeit encountering challenges is Kukabenzi. A customer’s plate of pork and matooke at a restaurant in town. (Dean Karemera) Although the lady in charge seemed skeptical about giving us information, Daniel, the night manager, divulged some details before we were dismissed. As we entered, patrons could be seen washing their hands while plates of pork decorated with tomatoes, onions and matooke were being placed on different tables. Daniel, who has worked at the place as a manager for the last six months said that the consumption has gone down at this particular place because of stiff competition. A plate of pork here costs Rwf 2500 but it also depends on the quantity, the price increases with quantity. “Our pork sales have gone down because of stiff competition. But generally, consumption has gone up with more places opening up to invest in the pork business,” he said. Daniel added that on average they can sell between 30 – 40kgs in a week compared to over 50kgs they used to sell in the past. Piggery business With the rise of pork consumption, there has come a rise in the piggery business and people who sell pork in markets. Four years ago, Evariste Munyeshayaka, a resident of Busanza sector, Gasabo district found himself in a desperate situation. Munyeshayaka was a motorcyclist and had never thought of the day he would ever be broke. He had three children and thought that was all he needed for a good life when all of a sudden he was involved in an accident that left him immobile for almost a year. “By the time I fully recovered, I was a broke man. We had used all my savings on my treatment. My children had dropped out of school and my wife was frustrated. With no motorcycle to use to earn an income, a friend introduced me to the idea of piggery. Using the small piece of land I had acquired, I borrowed Rwf 100,000 from a friend and bought three piglets. I now have over 60 grown pigs,” says Munyeshayaka. People who sell pork in bars at times prefer to go to the pig farmers. (File) Munyeshayaka sells a grown pig between Rwf 100,000 and Rwf150,000. He has also opened up a market stall in Kimironko market for his wife to sell pork. “Apart from other people who buy pigs from me, my wife also buys from me and sells in the market. That way we get to make a lot of money since it rotates within our household,” Munyeshayaka said. He added that after subtracting taxes, expenses and other costs, he and the wife are able to save between Rwf 400,000 and Rwf 500,000 per month. Here, he added that it depends on the season, because he can make almost Rwf 1m between November and December compared to January and February when he makes between Rwf 300,000 and Rwf 400,000. Kimironko market Kimironko market is one of the places that have a high supply of pork in Kigali. There is always a lot of activity going on at the pork stalls although most of them are individuals who buy it for their home consumption. Nyinawundi, who is in her early 40s, says her customers are mostly those who prefer to prepare it at home but she also supplies to some bars if they place an order early. “I have different prices for people who buy on retail and wholesale basis. People who sell pork in bars at times prefer to go to the pig farmers. I can only buy enough pork to sell to a bar if they place an order but otherwise I make good profits by selling on retail basis,” Nyinawundi said. Nyinawundi added that weekends are the best days in her line of work since it’s when most people are home or are hosting house parties. Talking to some of the buyers, most of them attributed their liking for pork to its tastiness. “Personally I never used to eat it and when I first tasted it, I didn’t know I was eating pork until my friends told me what it was I was eating. Since then, I have never looked back,” said a buyer. The same sentiments were echoed by clients that we found at Royal Carwash which is also quite popular for its pork, among other things. On the night we were there, there was activity going on as customers tried to place orders. Several customers, I talked to expressed satisfaction with the way the pork is prepared and a variety of escort options that are on offer. A plate of fried pork starts from Rwf 3,500 depending on what it is served with. “Without the pork ribs in this place, I would have hard time enjoying pork in Kigali. It is my personal opinion that Car Wash has the best pork in Kigali,” said a customer. Although it was her opinion, what is evident is that the increase in pork consumption is just starting and for when the “madness” over this delicacy will end; maybe when the animals go extinct. As one customer summed it up for me, “a stick of pork a day, keeps a smile on my face.” ************************** YOUR VIEWS: What’s your take on the fast growing love for pork? Levy Byamukama, Student People eat pork because they like it. Simple as that. For me, a bacon sandwich or pizza with ham is hard to beat. Secondly, the smell of roast pork coming out of the oven is enough to make the mouth watery. Some slices of nice fresh ham, and not the water filled industrially pressed stuff you buy in supermarkets, but good pork cut off the bone as part of a nice salad is something that people will never let go of. It’s nutritious, tasty and can be eaten in a variety of ways. David Nyasha, Music director Well, Akabenzi is sweet (depending on where you get it from), but I don’t get the whole vibe that it is popular in Kigali. I think Kigali people give the Akabenzi more credit than it deserves. I’m not being a hater, just realist. Grace Johnson, Marketing strategist I think its meat like any other, and the fact that the taste is different makes the whole scenario different. We grew up in families that said pork is bad due to Bible stories. But now we are in a different generation and we have accepted who we are by taking food as an experience of sharing happiness not just three, two or four meals a day. It’s not only akabenzi, people eat almost everything as long as it is cooked. And I don’t think it will stop at pork, people are about to start eating anything that goes but it is all good for business. Lisa Robinson, Creative artist Pork tastes good but please do not generalise the craze to the whole of Kigali. Maybe it’s a delicacy some people have eaten since childhood and they enjoy it. I say this considering that some people came from different countries where they might have eaten pork first, not it Rwanda per se. To them it is normal. Again, when someone discovers really tasty food, why wouldn’t the whole family continue eating it. For example, Chinese eat lots of vegetables, chicken too. Not just pork. karemeradean@gmail.com

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Akabenzi: Insatiable appetite for the delicacy on the rise