NORTHEN PROVINCE

A one hour trek towards into northern Rwanda, the most mountainous and forested area in the country, not only worries strangers but also locals themselves. Crunching sounds hang over the misty thick bush, the slanting but clear roads around the hills are always dangerous.

Heavy downpours stretch for days and nights, especially during this time of year. But the desire to move to the ‘promised land,’ Virunga National Parc, to meet Ingange gorillas, one is compelled to face the wilderness and wild.

It is 3 in the afternoon, seated comfortably in one of the Virunga buses that barrage the Kigali-Ruhengeri route. As I sit waiting for more passengers to come on board, we present the tickets, tighten the seat belts and the driver makes the final signal that we are setting off.

It is the first time to move towards the region where the wild gorillas live peacefully with the humans. An area which was grossly affected by war as it stretched to 1997, during the bacengezi warfare.

After 2 hours of non-stop safe driving, we are welcomed by a sign post,’’ murakaza neza mukarere ka Musanze, nimugire amahoro ubworoherane ubumwe n’ bwiyunge’’—Musanze district welcomes and wishes you peace and a nice stay.

The small town has four hotels with first-class services, Kinigi tourist hotel, La Palme hotel, Muhabura and Notre dame de Fatima hotel.

However, as I settle for coffee at La Palme, it soon turns cold and dark; mist descends from the adjacent Karisimbi and Sabyinyo mountains, soon masking the whole area in a thick, filmy coat.

Inside, homegrown Irish potatoes are cooked for me and tea boiled. The wilderness is exotic and beautiful from the inside.
Tomorrow, I will attempt to go to Virunga and track the endangered mountain gorillas, living in an area split between Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Over 40 years since zoologist Dian Fossey opened her research centre at Karisoke, Rwanda remains at the forefront of international efforts to save and learn more about one of man’s closest cousins.

As part of the benefits spilling from gorilla conservation, Musanze has had its roads renovated. The services offered in terms of accommodation, restaurants and well-furnished rooms have all been equipped to meet the demand.

According to Jean Paul Niyonizigiye, manager of the La Palme, an inspection team from ORTPN recently visited all hotels in Ruhengeri to asses the quality of their services.

What many don’t know and would be surprised to learn is the fact that there is more to life here than tracking the gorillas; the weather itself is worth feeling, the good hotels, hospitable people and traditional arts and crafts made by the Batwa are especially pleasing.

Ends