Nightfall at ‘Michael’s Land’ at the shores of Lake Ruhondo comes with a very cold breeze. The sky becomes darker as its clear blue fades away. The mountains that surround the lake merge into shadows that blend the entire setting into a picture perfect scenery.

This is where Sylvester Nduwayezu and his wife, Beatrice Mukamana have built a life for themselves. 

The couple is one of the last remaining families on this island, known as ‘Michael’s Land’—named after a descendant of the place. Their home, a tiny three-bedroom house, sits on a small piece of land that hovers in the middle of Lake Ruhondo, overlooking gorgeous landscapes. 

Away from the clatter of urban life, the two have put together a home, which they share with their two children.

Beatrice Mukamana doing chores. She says they struggle with living in isolation. 

Nduwayezu, 28, was born and raised on this island; as for his wife Beatrice, she was raised from a neighbouring village but came to settle on the island after they got married, almost a decade ago. 

When they had just gotten married, Nduwayezu’s family was also living with them at the time, but they later shifted to the mainland, leaving the couple behind as the only inhabitants of the island.

"My parents were getting old and couldn’t manage living here anymore. They had to move, and since then we have been living here alone,” he says.

Farming is their main source of living; they grow sweet potatoes and beans mostly, but they rear animals and fish too.

Mysterious ‘people of the night’

At the break of dawn, they wake up to the daily routine of life, only that in their case, it’s just the two of them. Their children spend most of their time with their grandparents, and only come once in a while to visit.

Mukamana sweeps the compound. 

Life on the island has been exciting for the most part but it has also been challenging, the couple admits. 

While they get to enjoy the backdrop scenery of living by the lakeside, they struggle with living in isolation, among other challenges.

Sometimes when it gets too lonely, Nduwayezu says they at times row across to the mainland to be with others.

The couple has been married for nine years.

"But we can’t do this all the time, in most cases we remain at home.  When we are done farming and other activities, my wife prepares food and after that it’s only a matter of time before it gets dark,” he says.

Seeking medical services, especially in cases of emergency, is another challenge. "But as islanders, we got our own way we can communicate with those across for them to come and help us. We have been lucky not to find ourselves in such tough situations, because even when my wife was giving birth, she always got labour pains during the day, this happened with both pregnancies.”

For Mukamana, her most challenging moments relate to the daily running of their household. 

Sylvester Nduwayezu and his wife grow sweet potatoes and beans mostly. 

Whatever we do, we have to use the boat. Whether you want to buy a matchbox or salt, any kind of shopping, needs you to cross over yet getting to the mainland is very far, she says.

Mukamana admits that it wasn’t easy adjusting to this kind of life. "Without anyone to talk to, we were always consumed with boredom. At times, my husband would be away, and I would end up sleeping because I had nothing to do. But at some point, we started getting used.”

Her other worry on the island is the case with ‘night dancers’ (mysterious people of the night), in that when her husband is away and she is left alone on the island, she locks all her doors before night falls.

Theodore Nzabonimpa, founder and managing director of ‘Beyond the Gorillas Experience Limited’, believes this place is a great spot for anyone with love for adventure. 

These people come to their home almost every day but mostly ascend in the wee hours of the morning.

"I was terrified the first time I heard them outside, they would come and hit our house either on the door or the window. But we came to learn that they were harmless. When they come, they normally dance as they make ruckus, we never get to know how they come or leave. They come here because it’s isolated, no one can see them,” Mukamana narrates.  

Apart from this, however, the couple says they have never encountered any harmful or petrifying experience, not even attacks from wild animals.

Life as a couple 

Mukamana says for the most part, living alone on the island has been good for their marriage. The two have had their good and trying moments, however, as with any other couple. 

When they had just started living together, any complaint or disagreement that would arise would be taken to her mother-in-law for settlement. However, after shifting, she says they had to look for solutions from each other.

"We got married when we were still young, nothing scared us. I believe it’s this love that has held us together for the years we have been married. We have always believed that the only way to build our marriage was to root it in love.”

Nduwayezu says they have managed to stay married because of the patience and understanding they have towards each other.

He says, "When we get conflicts we have to be patient with each other because it’s only the two of us anyway. Normally, when one of us is mad, we give each other space and after we cool down, we counsel each other and promise to do better next time. It’s hard to stay mad for a long time when all we have is each other.” 

The couple hopes to shift and start living on the mainland as soon as they find means to afford a plot of land.

Tourism

Theodore Nzabonimpa, founder and managing director of ‘Beyond the Gorillas Experience Limited’, a company involved with cultural tourism and hospitality, met this couple a few years ago, as he searched for attractive places for tourists to explore. 

"At the time, there were three families but the others shifted. As a way of supporting this couple, we started working with them; when tourists go and spend time on the island, they get a commission. We had to enlighten them that the fact that they live in a beautiful place shouldn’t stop at that, but make good use of it to help them improve their livelihood,” he says.

Nzabonimpa explains that on the island, tourists get to enjoy the ‘Live like a king or queen on the island experience.’ 

"With this particular experience, we share the history of Rwanda, its kings and queens. We do boat cruises on this lake watching and enjoying the view, seeing various activities, beautiful mountains, we also do ‘booze cruise’ when we have beer as we enjoy the sunset.”

The tourism expert believes this place is a great spot for anyone with love for adventure, as well as those looking for a place for their honeymoon.