When news arrived that the Karenge eco-Bush camp in Akagera National Park would open (almost) all year, I jumped at this opportunity to experience the northern section of the park in the wet season. So, we prepped for a rainy bush weekend adventure: checked the car, let a bit of air from the tires, and packed rain clothes and warm socks. Little did I know this weekend would be sweltering hot and dry, but even though the initial angle for this story fell apart, there is much to enjoy at Karenge, rain or shine.
The northern part of Akagera park holds a special place in my heart, mostly because of the two largest plains – Mohana plains and Kilala plains – that are brimming with wildlife. In the past, some areas could be difficult to reach in the rainy season, with roads flooded or too slippery to pass. Even though roads have now improved considerably, when the rains come down, make sure you and your car are prepared for it.
From the Akagera Park reception, Karenge Bushcamp can be reached in 4-6 hours, depending on the route you choose. Because it was hot, and most animals would probably hide somewhere in the shade, we took the mountain road north, passing Nyamabuye Lookout and Mutumba Hills campsite.
This route doesn’t offer a lot of wildlife, but the scenery more than makes up for it. The road meanders over a mountain ridge that allows vistas to both sides, mixing rolling green hills on the west with views of lakes and papyrus swamp stretching into Tanzania on the east. Take your time, because some parts of the road require a very slow pace, maneuvering the car over boulders and rocks.
For many hours, we didn’t meet another soul, human or animal – except for tsetse flies, if they have a soul. These swarms of nasty stinging flies appear out of nowhere and like to follow the vibration of the engine and enter through the windows.
After a few murderous battles in the car, leaving the interior covered in red blood stains, it was democratically decided the windows should stay closed. When there are many flies and you want to stop for a photo, it is better to turn off the engine first, wait for the flies to leave, and then open the door or window. We made a stop at the Mutumba Hills campsite for a cup of coffee from the thermos and delicious carrot cake muffins, graciously provided by Ruzizi Lodge. This campsite has clean toilets, a water pump -with hand soap – and an area to have a picnic and enjoy the view.