It is a sunny Sunday morning as I take breakfast under a tree canopy at Nyungwe Eagle’s Nest in Nyungwe National Park reflecting on my two-day experience at the forest lodge...Then like a flash, the (yellow) banana I had was gone!

Lost in thought, I did not realise that I had company - a group of monkeys were all around me. I watched in amusement as the monkey moved majestically, sat a few metres and started eating my banana.

Just to test how more daring the monkeys could be, I ordered for a few more yellow bananas and placed them teasingly and protectively to see if they would dare snatch the bananas.

Trust monkeys not to miss the opportunity for their favourite delicacy-bananas – they came for the fruits with one stopping barely a metre from my seat.

Seeing that they were as smart as they had pretended to earlier and satisfied with the send-off, I leave the bananas on the table as I went to pack my bags to embark on the five-hour journey back to Kigali.

Such experiences are an everyday occurrence at Nyungwe, explaining why I want to go back soon just to get lost in jungle and forget about breakneck city life in Kigali.

Nyungwe National Park is a rainforest in south-western Rwanda; it borders Burundi to the south, and Lake Kivu and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west. 

A home to 12 primates species, Nyungwe is also a birds’ paradise with over 300 species, including 16 endemic ones, according to my tour guide. The park has 75 different species of mammals. The thick rainforest is filled with nature and wildlife experiences for hiking the beautiful terrain, tracking the famous chimpanzees, experiencing the canopy walk, or relaxing by waterfalls.

Life in the jungle

Before I set off for the trip with a couple of friends, I envisioned things, like a little classy hotel room, a big bed, fireplaces and all.

I am taken aback when I arrive at Gisakura Guesthouse to find the only remaining room had two small beds, with worn-out beddings. And to think that I booked a week in advance! I didn’t want to sound rather rude, I let it pass, and asked for the alternative, which was a few meters away – Nyungwe Eagles’ Nest.

After checking in and grabbing a quick shower, it was time to explore the much-talked about Nyungwe Park…I can already see all kinds of creatures and plants in my mind’s eye.

As we hit the Igishigishigi trail, I can hear birds sing beautiful melodies, bringing back my boyhood memories.

Dreamly, I trudge on taking in great scenery along the trail as we hiked through trail overhang with a breathtaking canopy walkway.

I spend the last hour of my first day in the jungle watching the sun set over tree tops and darkness reigns over forest that seem to have suddenly grown thicker and bigger. Needless to mention the unexpected rains that showered us for 30 minutes, while we trailed back.  

After breakfast the next morning, it was time to test my fitness levels by taking on Imbaraga trail, a 10km-long trail that can drain anyone. My efforts were rewarded with the sight of the most scenic waterfalls. Of the 14 trails in Nyungwe National Park, this must be the most memorable and one of the toughest.

As the Bible says, there is a time for everything - a time to laugh and a time to cry etcetera; I had my share of all this at some point while in the jungle.

Frustrations  

From the start, the fault was mine as I under budgeted the trip. Besides, with the tourism development hype in the country, I expected to find lots of Automated Teller Machines (ATM) at least at the Gisakura reception centre or any other cashless transaction services to facilitate a comfortable and possibly a longer stay in the jungle.

That was a huge mistake for which I paid dearly.

After checking in, on the first day, I wanted to go back to Uwinka reception for Igishigishigi trail, a 25-minute drive from Gisakura that costs Rwf30,000 (that comes with a return trip to my hotel), But I didn’t have enough liquid cash on me, so I decided to look for an ATM or visa credit card services in vain.

"The available Visa credit card reader is for dollar savings accounts,” said one receptionist at Gisakura. Do these people care about local tourists, I asked myself.

I was forced to go to Nyamasheke town - about one hour away to find an ATM machine, at an additional cost of Rwf20,000. On reaching there, the only ATM in town was playing unnecessary connection games-it gave me the least amount I wanted.  

So, to be on the safe side, one is advised to go with enough cash to avoid such experiences.

Morning trails are safer from rains

I arrived at Uwinka at 3pm, and we went to explore the canopy through Igishigishigi trail right away. The sky was cloudy and it was threatening to rain any moment. After a 30 minutes walk through a slippery trail, we arrived at the canopy walkway. I hastily crossed the metal bridge suspended 70 metres above the forest. Don’t blame me, I fear heights…

As we were returning from the hike, the heavens opened and a heavy downpour started. So I learnt the hard way… If you want to have a better canopy experience and stay longer in the middle of the forest, it’s advisable to start as early at10am.Chances are that rains will fall almost twice in the afternoons, according to our guide.

I also discovered that 70 per cent of Rwanda water originates from the beautiful rainforest, which is also believed to be the source of River Nile.

Getting to Nyungwe

If you don’t have a private car, don’t worry on how you would get to comfortably visit Nyungwe forest. A ride from Nyabugogo terminal using public means costs Rwf5,000.

Board buses going to Nyamasheke, and disembark at Gisakura reception. RDB staff will help you book space on the same buses after your trip. There are also taxicabs around the park to move you from one trail to another.

For a sleepover, a minimum budget of Rwf70,000 would work for a single tourist to have one-of-a-kind wildlife experience.