When you get to the airport of Abidjan, which isn’t so crowded, you are welcomed by posters of telecom companies which surround the walls of the airport and security guards that are dressed in trousers that look like leggings. At first, I thought it was just a few of them but later got to realise that it was a fashion trend among all security personnel in the country. Apparently it’s the first thing everyone notices. 

With my barely passable French, I managed to get through immigration through the well furnished Félix-Houphouët-Boigny International Airport.

Walking out of the airport, there are so many orange cabs that travel within Abidjan for a cost of CFA 2000 equivalent to Rwf 2300. With the price of a cab this low and yet the distance I had moved was long; I was already excited about the prices in this city.

Hotels range from $100 to $200 in the city centre and get as low as $50 in the outskirts of town. To be able to have the proper feel of the city, I paid for a room in a hotel located at the centre of Abidjan, commonly known as Plateau. After a cold shower, it wasn’t long before I started sweating again due to the humidity that surrounds this town in the middle of a lagoon.

One very strange feature about this town is that it has a mixture of very old and very new buildings. From way back in the times of former president Houphouët-Boigny, when Ivory Coast was known as the Paris of Africa and the City of Ivory, they had 45-storey buildings which to date still don’t exist anywhere in East Africa. These long and nice looking glass buildings blend with the new buildings and it definitely doesn’t take a hawk eye to see the long African Development Bank tower that brings the new touch to the city.

The people are very loud and from far, you could think people are arguing yet they are in a very light conversation. The drivers on the road are impolite and drive very fast as young boys dart across the busy streets selling water and juice. Majority of the cars on the road are French make and are really expensive.

With a town so busy and has serious traffic jams, how can one pass their free time?

Things to do and see in Abidjan

Like any modern city, the sights for tourists in Abidjan aren’t that fascinating as it is a business town but the nights come to life especially in their red light district called Yopougon.

Use the orange taxi: The way Rwandans jump on taxi mottos to move around Kigali especially in the residential areas is the same way the Ivorians use the orange taxi. You don’t need to speak French, you just need to mention a place close to where you are going and know how to say 1000 or 2000 in French. The cabs are also the best way to drive around and look at the city for less than $3.

Saint Paul’s Cathedral: If you are coming from the north, the sight of a cathedral might seem strange. St-Paul’s is beautiful and the Plateau is worth the hike.

Visit grand Bassam: The first capital of Ivory Coast, the Historic Town of Grand-Bassam, is an example of a late 19th and early 20th Century colonial town. The town has very unique sites to visit like the N’zima African fishing village alongside colonial architecture. The woodwork shops alongside the road sell the most unique furniture I have ever seen.

Visit Yopougon: You haven’t experienced the party life of Ivory Coast until you get to visit this crazy town. During the day, the streets are empty and as the moon takes over from the sun, the traffic to the town is overwhelming.

Large groups of people take over the streets and vendors frying chicken and fish along the streets bring the area to life. The music is so loud and green and red disco lights from the bars give the streets a colourful feel.

Ivorians love loud music with very fast beats. Young are dancing on the streets and unless you are a party animal, this is not the place for you. On Friday night, most city dwellers tell you that "all roads lead to Yopougon”.

Musée National: You might also visit the national museum if you have some time but if not, don’t bother because it was pretty much ransacked during the war and there is little to nothing worth seeing there.

Where to eat in Abidjan

The best way to eat on a budget in Abidjan is to seek out the maquis. The maquis usually have set menus and serve lunches or dinners for around $2 to $4 and sometimes less. When in Abidjan, you definitely must make it a point to eat Acheke, a side dish made from cassava and Alocco, an Ivorian snack made from sliced fried plantain. These are the starters before the main meal is served.

There are also a number of really good Lebanese Shawarma places in town that offer some cheap and quick eats.

If you’re looking for a fancy lunch, I can highly recommend a place down in the plateau called Le Croisette. It was expensive (my meal came to about $20), but it was well worth the extra cash.

Strange and unique thing about this town

They think highly of Rwandans

Show your Rwandan passport and they will trust and respect you because they think you are honest, clean and organized and I hope I didn’t do anything to change that attitude.

Shops close on Friday and Sunday

On Friday and Sunday, you might have to walk a mile to buy something as simple as airtime or sugar. Muslims; who make the biggest number in the city close for Friday prayers and Christians take Sunday off for church. As if that isn’t enough, you will not be able to get a shop open past 8pm.

Your name tells your social class

By seeing your surname, a fellow Ivorian can tell if you have money or not. It isn’t exactly true but many young men use that to their advantage in the clubs.

Horses on the loose in town

You could be driving by and see a horse in town and it doesn’t look like it has someone watching over it. I probably would have taken one for myself if we shared a border with Abidjan.

editorial@newtimes.co.rw