The trendy kitenge

One of the greatest perks about African fashion is the ability to design and create your own pieces. The Rwandan market stalls are lined with brightly coloured fabrics and rows of seamstresses creating beautiful localized designs.

Thursday, June 05, 2014
Seamstress Chantal (left) can replicate any design of your choice

One of the greatest perks about African fashion is the ability to design and create your own pieces. The Rwandan market stalls are lined with brightly coloured fabrics and rows of seamstresses creating beautiful localized designs.

Navigating the markets can be overwhelming, as there are so many options to choose from. A jewel I have found to work with in Kimironko market is Josephine. She has run her own fabric stall at the edge of the market for over six years. Her walls are populated with fabric from Algeria, Ivory Coast, Tanzania and DRC. With a mix of traditional kitenge, oriental inspired, and contemporary designs — she is a one stop shop for brightly coloured fabric. 

Even with two boys in primary school, she still finds time to fulfill the never-ending requests from customers. She works with local seamstresses at the market to perfect the tailoring. She knows different strengths of each seamstress — directing you to one for rompers, another for dresses, and yet another for infinity scarves. 

As I was sitting at lunch time discussing with Josephine about her business, her cozy stall was filled with customers: a young woman looking to have her fabric purse zipper fixed, two best friends in for a fitting to try on a pair of shorts and a dress, both from the same cheerful purple, striped fabric, and two visitors in from the United States, looking to design a shirt. 

To help inspire the creative mind, Josephine has a bright blue book filled with previous designs that you can peruse to spark your imagination. I have looked through the book myself on many occasions, "I want a dress like this — but with that neckline, and those sleeves, and this fabric.” The combinations are infinite. 

Josephine will allow for as much tailoring as needed, to ensure that the piece is to your liking. Every once in a while I’ll have a piece fit perfectly the first time, but on the occasion it is not, she is endlessly patient with alteration requests, at no additional fee.

Fabric ranges from Rwf 1,500 to 5,000 per piece (two yards) depending on the quality and origination of the fabric. Clothing pieces have a wide range, from Rwf 2,000 for a scarf, Rwf 5,000 for skirts or shorts, and around Rwf 10,000 for a dress depending on complexity. She introduced me to a brilliant seamstress named Chantal who does a great crop top and pencil skirt set, similar to what Taylor Swift and Katy Perry have worn. The set sells for around Rwf 15,000. Everything is made to order, and ready in about a week. 

Next time you’re at Kimironko and want a fashionably affordable piece, don’t hesitate to ask for Josephine. If your needs go beyond fabric, keep an eye out for Amos, who wears a bright green jacket with #213. While you’re creating designs with Josephine, he’ll do your other household and vegetable shopping for you and bring it to the stall!

That’s the fashion scoop for this week. Got a thought? Trend? Style you hate? Send it my way.     

Rachel Breaux is an American living in Rwanda